Breeding dogs

Breeding from your bitch and raising her puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. Pet bitches are often torn between their instinctive desire to be with their puppies and the routines they have acquired with their owners. This can lead to problems and should be borne in mind before breeding is contemplated. Also raising a litter of puppies is an extremely time-consuming exercise and one which should not be embarked upon without due consideration. The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success or if you've already had a bit of an accident and have a pregnant bitch to give you the information you need to know.

How often does a bitch come into heat?

Dogs reach puberty betweeen 6 and 18 months and from here on will come into heat approximately every 6 months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle anything up to once in 15 months. In most giant breeds (Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, St Bernards etc.) a yearly heat is normal.

What are the signs of heat?

Normally most dogs are on heat for about 3 weeks. There are 3 parts to the heat cycle. The first is called proestrus and this is when the bitch starts coming on heat. This usually lasts about 1 week. The most notable signs are vaginal bleeding and swelling of the vulva. A male will be atracted to the bitch during this time but she will not allow him to mate.

The next stage is oestrus which begins about the end of the first week and lasts for about 9-14 days. The vulva becomes less swollen and the discharge becomes clearer at this stage. This is the period where the bitch will accept the male. Ovulation occurs at the start of oestrus and as a rule of thumb the bitch will first accept the male in the first 2 days following ovulation.

The final stage is dioestrus and this lasts from the end of Oestrus until the time that the bitch would give birth if she was pregnant. It is very difficult to detect the start of diestrus but generally the bitch will not accept the male. Because it is hard to detect and the length of the overall cycle varies so much between dogs and from heat to heat it is best to lock you bitch up until at least 4 weeks after the first sign of proestrus if you don't want her to get pregnant.

So what's involved with the whole mating process?

Male dogs are more successful when the environment is familiar. Therefore, it is preferable to take the female to the male's home for breeding. The timing for mating is critical. The most fertile time is 2 days following the start of oestrus when ovulation occurs(generally the 10th through to the 14th days of the heat period). However, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day.

In a normal mating the dogs become tied. The penis locks in and the dog will turn around to face the opposite way. This tying should last for at least 10 minutes for success but can sometimes last for more than an hour. The bitch will often yelp when the dog turns and this is normal. If you don't want pups and catch them in the act, then do not attempt to seperate them. Dogs lock together when mating and forcing them to seperate could do irreparable damage to either dogs genitals.

A single tied mating is generally successful and produce a litter of pups. If you want to make sure you can repeat the mating in a couple of days.

Tests to determine when to mate

There are two tests that are used for this purpose:

• The first is a microscopic examination of vaginal cells to detect changes in cell appearance and numbers. This has been used for many years and is reasonably reliable.
• A second available test determines changes in the progesterone level in the blood. This test is a very accurate test. It gives a very good indication of when mating is most likely to be successful and also gives a more accurate estimate of the due date.

If a bitch is in proestrus and refuses the male, do not leave the dog with her. After repeated unsuccessful attempts the dog will often give up refusing to try anymore and mating will not be successful. If this is the bitches first litter use an experienced male that has successfully produced at least 1 litter.

Looking after the bitch during pregnancy

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, normally ranges from 60 to 67 days, the average being 63 days. Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65. The only way to accurately determine the due date is to know when ovulation occurs. This can be estimated by calculating 63 days from the time the bitch first accepts the dog. Make sure you accurately record the time that mating occurs, and all other signifacant events like when bleeding started, etc.

A blood test is available which can accurately detect pregnancy form 21-28 days after ovulation. This will determine if she is pregnant but not when the pups are due or how many there are. An ultrasound can be done from 28 days. If done early it may be possible to determine how many pups are present. It is also possible to calculate an approximate due date by taking measurements of the pups, or parts of them. Generally xrays are not necessary. By the time pups can be detected on xray it is pretty obvious that they are pregnant. Xrays are sometimes used in some special circumstances such as difficulty whelping or if a very large pup is suspected.

The size of the parents are not a significant factor in the size of the pups. The most sinificant factor controlling the size of the pups is litter size. A large litter will consist of smaller pups while 1 or 2 pups is often bad news and often leads to a caesarian.

Feeding

It is important that a bitch is in good condition before she is mated, neither too fat nor too thin. Her food intake should not be altered during the first two thirds of her pregnancy, and if a complete formula is being fed there is no need to use additional vitamin or mineral supplements. After the 6th week food intake should be gradually increased and a commercial puppy food should be fed. As pressure in the belly increases with the size of the foetuses, smaller meals fed more frequently may be helpful. During the last three weeks food intake will often increase by up to one and a half times the normal level and at the height of lactation, approximately three weeks after whelping, food intake is often two and a half to three times normal, particularly if she is feeding a large litter. Once the bitch has whelped she should be allowed free accesss to puppy food which should be fed until all the pups are weaned and she is back to her normal body condition. Do not restrict her food during this period. She will not get fat.

Preparing for whelping

From the time of mating, many dogs show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention. However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomiting ("morning sickness"), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.

During the last week or so of pregnancy, the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for delivery. Pet bitches often become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare for the forthcoming event. It is therefore a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in advance of whelping but even then some bitches insist on having their pups in close proximity to the owner. Under these circumstances it is better to let the bitch have her way and then when she has finished, gently try moving her to the place that she should have already been introduced to some days or weeks previously. Ideally you may prefer her to use the whelping box you had prepared for her in a laundry.

Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide disposable, absorbent bedding which the bitch can tear up and reorganise according to her own requirements. At the same time they will absorb the fluids which are always more copious than you would ever expect at the time of whelping. If sufficient thickness of newspaper is laid at the outset, the upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

What happens during the birthing process (parturition)?

Most dogs experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers should be attended by their owners until at least one or two puppies are born. If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary. However, with a bitch having puppies for the first time a careful watch should be kept upon her until she has finished, just in case any complications develop. If you elect to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box.

Signs of impending whelping

• These generally include nervousness and panting. The bitch will often stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although with some breeds this does not apply. All the textbooks tell you that rectal temperature will drop below 37.8°C but this may only occur an hour or two before she starts producing.
• Bitches often go to a quiet place and dig a hole, this can be a hole in the garden or in your furniture or carpet. Once this starts it's definately time for the whelping box.
• During this time the cervix is dilating so the bitch is uncomfortable and is getting small contractions which stimulate the cervix to dilate. This can take 24 to 48 hours but is often less than this.

The normal birth position

Puppies are usually born head first; with the head and forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch- the puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first. Breech presentation in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and rump is presented is abnormal. It can result in a normal birth although breech presentations frequently present problems. If a puppy's rump is presented and the bitch is straining continuously without making any progress, veterinary attention should be sought without delay.

Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta ("afterbirth"). These usually pass after the puppies are born. However, any that do not pass usually disintegrate and are passed within 24-48 hours after delivery. If the bitch develops a blood stained, pussy or smelly discharge consult your veterinary surgeon. Note that it is normal for the mother to eat the placentas.

If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose. This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing; it also dries the newborn's haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body. Next, she will eat the placenta.

If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery. A piece of dampened gauze or thin face cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet. When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e. toward her rear feet) direction. If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is wedged. Veterinary help may be needed.

It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies; however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so. If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene. The puppy's face should be wiped with a damp face cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with a warm. soft towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. If the puppy does not start to take a breath, gentle blowing down the throat after gently opening the mouth with the fingers also helps to assist respiration. The umbilical cord should be tied using sewing thread or dental floss and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about half an inch (1.3 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box.

Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration. This fluid can be removed by the following procedure. First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy's face should be cradled between the first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red. A bluish coloured tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signalling that the swinging procedure should be repeated.

It is helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, it should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery. Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle should be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source. Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.

Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box. The box should be lined with soft acrylic type bedding, prior to the puppies' return. The mother should accept the puppies readily and settle down to feed them.

The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinary surgeon within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery, and to check the new-born puppies. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production.

The mother may have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery. If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinary surgeon for possible problems.

What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian. Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:

• Twenty minutes of intense labour occurs without a puppy being delivered.
• Ten minutes of intense labour occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal.
• The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.
• The mother's body temperature exceeds 39.4°C (via a rectal thermometer).
• Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.
• If a green discharge is seen without any puppies having been born. nb. this is normal after the pups are born.

Looking after the puppies.

The mother will spend most of her time with the puppies during the next few days. The puppies need to be kept warm and to nurse frequently; they should be checked every few hours to make certain that they are warm and well fed. The mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk.

If the mother does not stay in the box, the puppies' temperatures must be monitored. If the puppies are cold, supplementary heating should be provided. During the first four days of life, the environment for the puppies should be maintained at around 30°C. The temperature may gradually be decreased to 27°C by the seventh to tenth day and to about 22°C by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth. Their behaviour will give a guide to whether they are comfortable. If they are warm and content they will be quiet and gaining weight.

If the mother feels the puppies are in danger or if there is too much light she may become anxious. Placing a sheet or cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve the problem. An enclosed box is also a solution. Some dogs, especially first-time mothers, are more anxious than others. Such dogs may attempt to hide their young, even from the owner. If the bitch continues to move her puppies from place to place, some attempt at confinement may be worthwhile. However if she is still unsettled, veterinary advice should be sought since the puppies will certainly be endangered if they are placed in a cold or draughty location. If the bitch becomes too distressed she could kill her puppies as a means of "protecting" them from danger.

Puppies should feed and sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks. Constant crying indicates a problem and the vet should be consulted.

Another good indication of thriving is weight increase. Some kitchen scales are good for this and can be bought at many "two dollar shops". Puppies may be identified with textar on the belly and careful weight records kept.

If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will cry. If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours. Contact you vet as soon as possible.

Puppies should begin eating solid food about three and a half to four and a half weeks of age. As soon as their eyes are open, one of the bitch milk replacers should be placed in a flat saucer. The puppies' noses can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped into the formula. Repeat this 2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap; this usually takes 1-3 days. Next (usually after 3-4 days of lapping milk), feed a soft (canned or moist) puppy food. The amount of milk should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age. As soon as they are able to eat it is worthwhile weaning them on to one of the complete puppy foods of which there are many today, both dry and canned as well as semi-moist. Most puppies, particularly those of the toy and smaller breeds prefer the canned varieties. Once the puppy is happy with a complete formula there is no need to add any vitamin or mineral supplements.

Watch out for milk fever

Eclampsia, or milk fever, is due to a depletion of calcium in the blood of the mother due to heavy milk production. It generally occurs when the puppies are 3-5 weeks old (just before weaning) and most often to mothers with large litters or with an abundance of milk as some bitches naturally have. Good mothers, especially attentive of their puppies, always seem to suffer more severely. .

The mother has muscle spasms resulting in rigid legs, spastic movements, and heavy panting. This can be fatal in 30-60 minutes, so a veterinarian should be consulted immediately. This is a major emergency situation.

Do puppies need a special diet?

Diet is extremely important for a growing puppy. There are many commercial foods specially formulated for puppies. These foods meet their unique nutritional requirements and should be fed until 12-18 months of age. Puppy foods are available in dry and canned formulations. Dry foods are less expensive in the long run. Large breed dogs, ie any dog which will have a fully-grown weight of 20kg or more should be fed a large breed growth diet which is specially formulated for slow growth which reduces the chance of the pup developing hip dysplasia and other joint problems.

We recommend that you buy food formulated for puppies. Adult formulations are not recommended since they do not provide the nutrition required for a puppy. Table food is not recommended; although often more appealing than dog food, balanced nutrition is not easily achieved.

When should vaccinations begin?

Puppies are provided some immunity to canine diseases from their mother before and shortly after birth. This is particularly true if the dam's vaccinations are up to date. Some of the mother's antibodies cross the placenta and enter the puppies' circulation, but most antibodies are provided in the mother's milk, particularly the first milk or colostrum. These "maternal antibodies" protect the puppies against the diseases to which the mother is immune. This explains why it is so important to ensure that any booster inoculations are administered prior to mating.

Vaccinations for the puppy should be started at about 6 weeks of age. Puppies should be vaccinated against distemper, hepatitis, and parvovirus. The pups should also be microchipped at this time.

All puppies have worms

Intestinal parasites ("worms") are common in puppies. Sometimes no signs are apparent but often poor condition, chronic soft or bloody faeces, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of lustre of the haircoat, and weight loss are seen. Some parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are carried by fleas. Some are transmitted through the faeces of an infected dog. Very seldom are these parasites visible in the faeces. Generally puppies are wormed from about 2 weeks of age, and this should be repeated every 2 weeks.

This information is based on a handout produced by Lifelearn ®